A Handweaver's Pattern Book

Maybe that is a bit of hyperbole. Still, one of the things that is wonderful about weaving is that it is so old; its traditions are rich and inspiring. Marguerite Davison (1887—1953) played a very significant role in shepherding those traditions from the pre-industrial period to modern enthusiasts. In the first half of the 20th century, she collected, organized and published weaving drafts from all over the western world—a monumental task but one that was instrumental in saving weaving knowledge accumulated over the previous centuries.

 

A Handweaver’s Pattern Book is composed of 20 chapters, each focusing on different weave structures made on four-harness looms. The chapters begin with a brief historical overview of the structure. For example, in Chapter 11, Swedish Lace Weave, the introduction tells us that this structure is very old, that it was in use in Viking times and old samples have been found all over Europe. The chapter includes 15 Swedish Lace variations, small photographs and drafts of each so modern weavers can duplicate the fabric. The variations have such names as "Sara’s Lace Plaid", "Johann D----‘s No. 32", "Finnish Lace Block Design" and "Kirschbaum’s Design No. 3".

 

Other chapters cover twills, textures, Monk’s Belt, M’s and O’s, Crackle Weave, Summer and Winter, Squares with Borders, etc. Before a draft was accepted for inclusion in the book, a sample of each was woven so accuracy is assured.

 

My only difficulty with this directory is that the drafts are intended for counterbalance looms, since they were compiled before jack looms became so prevalent. This means that the tie-up has to be read in reverse, i.e. if shafts 3 and 4 are shown to be lifted, on jack looms shafts 1 and 2 will have to lift. However, this is not an insurmountable problem since all that will happen without changing the tie up is that the pattern will appear on the bottom of the warp.

 

The directory was first published in 1944 and the latest edition is available today direct from the publisher, The Spenser Partnership, founded in Pennsylvania in 1866.  It can also be ordered through Amazon and other sites even though they sometimes say the book is out of print.

 

Fortunately, this historic and valuable reference book is not out of print for it belongs in any weaver’s library.

 

Review by Betsy Tabac